Ouadan, Uadem, Audem or Wadan (Ouadane):
http://www.ssa.sri.com/news/newsletters/v12n1.pdf
The
town was already part of the UNESCO World Heritage list, but
the old town hadnt yet been restored. The Portuguese funding
was included in an ongoing project of valorisation of the
region, adding some other elements (apart from the financial
one) to a touristique product.
(Re)Writing the Past
The
work weve started in Ouadane already shows us that a
Portuguese memory is acknowledged by the populations of the
region, even if diffusely associated either with the Spanish,
with some kind of Christian community (nazrani)
or the mythical Baffour (an ancient Mauritanian population
incomprehensible with any Bidan genealogy). There still can be
found genealogical links between the Bidan (arabophone
population of Mauritania) and a Portuguese past, there are
oral traditions that mention this relation, and most probably
some archaeological data is still there. The five centuries
since the effective meeting of both worlds have obviously
confused the memories of the encounter, but the relation, even
if at a minimal scale, is still present and in Ouadane it is
now "rebuilt."
The
reinvention of these memories is as complicated a process as
the five hundred year leap leading to the present. Ouadane,
due to its particular location as an axis in the transaharan
caravan routes, has seen many wars, invasions, different
constructions and destructions, but the present concluded a
partnership between one of the few Christian communities that
passed through town, and this very limited period (the end of
the fifteenth, beginning of the sixteenth century 1490-1550)
is now significant enough for both parties to rectify this
relationship.
The
commonly expressed idea is that the Portuguese were the first
Westerners to establish commercial ties with Ouadane, and this
commercial link is still the most obvious association when
describing the Portuguese presence and its most present
memory.
Apart from the commercial history of the town, it is also
proclaimed an association with renowned religious knowledge
(the etymology of the name Ouadane is commonly associated with
the Arabic words,
wad
and
din,
meaning The River of Knowledge/The Valley of Religion, another
version reads a plural conjugation meaning the Two Valleys,
the ecological one and the religious one). These aspects find
immediate correspondence with a meeting point of numerous
people and traditions. The rehabilitation of the old city wall
should make sense this way: valorising a past of commercial
expertise and of fructuous contacts between north and south,
between East and West, and between the Islamized Sahara and
Western Europe. This is the aspect we find most significant in
the new writing of Ouadanes history, the valorisation of its
past as a commercial and intellectual Carrefour, linked with
Western Europe. The tourist project of Ouadane is deeply based
in this idea, showing a town that isnt only just another
Saharan landscape, mainly focused in its sands and sunsets. It
is part of a greater project, sponsored by UNESCO, that
integrates Ouadane has one of the four Mauritanian ancient
caravan and cultural centres.
Forty-four years after independence the country is analyzed by
terms well known to the post-colonial area studies, namely the
reconstruction of a past that should now integrate
foreign/colonial elements. We cant associate the Portuguese
settlement in Ouadane with a clearly colonial situation, but
we might possibly describe it as some proto-colonial
structure, as the aim and kind of fortuitous settlement in the
city (or region!) wasnt at all political; what could be
significant in the contemporary posture of both countries is:
the Portuguese efforts in patrimonializing a small symbol of
its presence in the region, and the Mauritanian desire to
integrate this past in its history. The renewed expression of
this link, which clearly affirms a foreign presence post
colonial rewriting of a past where European presence is
valorised, and a common present that can be understood as
valid, fructuous, and mutually desired.
The
eminent Imam of the citys main mosque, himself from the tribe
that claims the foundation of the city (Idawalhaj), doesnt
have difficulty mentioning the Christian (nazrani)
past of the town, or praising the project designed for the
ruins of the old town, although criticizes the scale of the
operation (in his opinion to small) and the design chosen for
the wall (that doesnt exactly correspond to the original
one). The Imam, who could possibly come out as one of the most
problematic