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Presena portuguesa
na Etipia
During the reign of Saint
Gebre Mesqel Lalibela (a member of the
Zagwe Dynasty, who ruled Ethiopia in the
late
12th century and early
13th century) the current town of
Lalibela was known as Roha. The
saintly king was given this name due to a
swarm of bees said to have surrounded him at
his birth, which his mother took as a sign
of his future reign as
Emperor of Ethiopia. The names of
several places in the modern town and the
general layout of the monolithic churches
themselves are said to mimic names and
patterns observed by Lalibela during the
time he spent in
Jerusalem and the
Holy Land as a youth.
Lalibela is said
to have seen
Jerusalem and then attempted to build a
new Jerusalem as his capital. As such,
many features have
Biblical names - even the town's river
is known as the
River Jordan. It remained the capital of
Ethiopia from the late 12th century and into
the 13th century.
The first European to see these churches
was the
Portuguese explorer
Pro da Covilh (1460 1526).
One of the earliest Europeans to see
Lalibela was the
Portuguese priest
Francisco lvares (1465 - 1540), who
accompanied the Portuguese Ambassador on his
visit to
Lebna Dengel in the
1520s. His description of these
structures concludes:
- I weary of writing more about these
buildings, because it seems to me that I
shall not be believed if I write more
... I swear by God, in Whose power I am,
that all I have written is the truth[3]
Although Ramuso included plans of several
of these churches in his 1550 printing of
lvares' book, it is not known who supplied
him the drawings. The next reported European
visitor to Lalibela was
Miguel de Castanhoso, who served as a
soldier under
Christovo da Gama and left Ethiopia in
1544.[4]
After de Castanhoso, over 300 years passed
until the next European,
Gerhard Rohlfs, visited Lalibela at some
time between 1865 and 1870
According to the Futuh al-Habasa
of Sihab ad-Din Ahmad,
Ahmad Gragn burned one of the churches
of Lalibela during his invasion of Ethiopia.[5]
However, Richard Pankhurst has expressed his
skepticism about this event, pointing out
that although Sihab ad-Din Ahmad provides a
detailed description of a monolithic church
("It was carved out of the mountain. Its
pillars were likewise cut from the mountain."[6]),
only one church is mentioned; Pankhurst adds
that "what is special about Lalibela (as
every tourist knows) is that it is the site
of eleven or so rock churches, not just one
-- and they are all within more or less a
stone's throw of each other!"[7]
Pankhurst also notes that the Royal
Chronicles, which mention Ahmad Gragn's
laying waste to the district between July
and September
1531, are silent about the Imam ravaging
the fabled churches of this city.[8]
He concludes with stating that if Ahmad
Gragn burned a church at Lalibela, it was
most likely
Bete Medhane Alem; and if the Muslim
army was either mistaken or misled by the
locals, then the church he set fire to was
Gannata Maryam, "10 miles east of
Lalibela which likewise has a colonnade of
pillars cut from the mountain".[9]
legend of Lalibela
Ever since the first European to describe the rock churches
of Lalibela, Francisco Alvarez, came to this holy city
between 1521 and 1525, travellers have tried to put into
words their experiences. Praising it as a New Jerusalem, a
New Golgotha, the Christian Citadel in the Mountains of
Wondrous Ethiopia. The inhabitants of the monastic township
of Roha-Lalibela in Lasta, province of Wollo, dwelling in
two storeyed circular huts with dry stonewalls, are unable
to believe that the rock churches are entirely made by man.
They ascribe their creation to one of the last kings of the
Zagwe dynasty, Lalibela, who reigned about 1200 A.D.
The Zagwe dynasty had come to power in the eleventh century,
one hundred years after Queen Judith, a ferocious woman
warrior had led her tribes up from the Semyen mountains to
destroy Axum, the capital of the ancient Ethiopian empire in
the north.
The charming Ethiopian folklore pictures telling the story
of King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba, which are sold in
Addis Ababa, give a popular version of how not only the
dynasty of ancient Axum (and present day Ethiopia) descended
from King Solomon, but also the medieval Zagwe dynasty. The
Queen of Sheba gave birth to Menelik, who became the first
King of Ethiopia. But the handmaid of the Queen, too, gave
birth to a son whose father was King Solomon, and her son
was the ancestor of the Zagwe dynasty.
The Zagwe kings ruled until the thirteenth century, when a
famous priest, Tekla Haymanot, persuaded them to abdicate in
favour of a descendant of the old Axumite Solomonic dynasty.
However, according to legend before the throne of Ethiopia
was restored to its rightful rulers, upon command of God and
with the help of angels, Lalibelas pious zeal converted the
royal residence of the Zagwe in the town of Roha in to a
prayer of stone.
The Ethiopian Church later canonized him and changed the
name of Roha to Lalibela. Roha, the centre of worldly might,
became Lalibela the holy city; pilgrims to Lalibela shared
the same blessings as pilgrims to Jerusalem, while the focus
of political power drifted to the south, to the region of
Shoa. Legends flower in Lalibela, and it is also according
to legend that Lalibela grew up in Roha, where his brother
was king. It is said that bees prophesied his future
greatness, social advance and coming riches. The king, made
jealous by these prophecies about his brother tried to
poison him, but the poison merely cast Lalibela into a death
like sleep for three days. During these three days an angel
carried his soul to heaven to show him the churches which he
was to build. Returned once more to earth he withdrew into
the wilderness then took a wife upon Gods command with the
name of Maskal Kebra (Exalted Cross) and flew with an angel
to Jerusalem. Christ himself ordered the king to abdicate in
favour of Lalibela. Anointed king under the throne name Gare
Maskal (Servant of the Cross) Lalibela, living himself an
even more severe monastic life than before, carried out the
construction of the churches. Angels worked side by side
with the stone masons, and within twenty four years the
entire work was completed.
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